If you’re looking at damaged walls and ceilings in your house, it could be time for some upgrading. The interiors of the majority of homes are coated with gypsum wallboard, sometimes known as drywall or Sheetrock. To some extent, drywall is resilient, but it can only withstand so much before you start to notice holes, cracks, and dents—especially if you have children or dogs running about. Fortunately, most drywall damage is readily and rapidly fixed. All you need are a few basic tools, the correct materials, and a few trade secrets. This step-by-step DIY tutorial will teach you how to repair drywall—from doorknob damage to cracks beneath the window to sagging ceilings—but first, certain precautions must be taken.
Tips for Staying Safe While Repairing Drywall
Lift with caution
It’s better to buy large 4-by-8-foot sheets of drywall and then trim them down to size as needed for mending major damage. However, keep in mind that a whole sheet of normal 1/2-inch drywall weights around 54 pounds. Because drywall sheets are difficult to handle and carry, you’ll want to prevent hurting your back. Always work with a helper whenever feasible, and remember to lift using your knees rather than your back. Also, use caution while resting drywall sheets against anything. A sheet that falls over might seriously damage someone, especially a child or pet.
Empty Bucket Alert
Premixed joint compound comes in a variety of sizes that may be used around the house and yard after they’re empty. Toddlers, on the other hand, are at risk from five-gallon buckets. The buckets are just high enough that if a tiny child leans over the side, they will fall in headfirst and be unable to crawl out. As a result, if you use the bucket to transport water, never leave it alone, even if it just holds a few inches of water. Also, never keep buckets outside where they might fill with rainfall, posing a drowning hazard. If the buckets are usually used for transporting and storing tools, gardening materials, and other dry products, cut drainage holes through the bucket’s side and bottom to prevent the danger of a youngster drowning.
Remove the dust
Sanding joint compound to generate a smooth, blemish-free surface is often required while doing drywall repairs. However, joint compound dust, which contains super-fine gypsum and silica particles, is a respiratory irritant. Wear a dust mask or, better still, a dual-cartridge respirator when sanding joint compound to protect your lungs. Spreading a drop cloth on the floor where you’re sanding is also a smart idea. When you’re through sanding, use a moist sponge to wipe the dust off the drop cloth, then vacuum the surrounding regions with a shop vacuum equipped with a HEPA filter. Finish by vacuuming after the air has calmed. Because most home vacuums cannot catch super-fine sanding dust and will just blast it back into the air, this two-step cleaning is required.
Determine Which Compound You Need Require
Lightweight and all-purpose premixed drywall repairs compounds, often known as spackle, are the two most prevalent forms. The lightweight product weighs around one-third less than all-purpose, dries faster, and requires less effort to sand smooth. All-purpose compound dries faster and is often less expensive. Both varieties are simple to use and have a shelf life of around nine months at room temperature. Purchase a five-gallon pail of compound if you have drywall damage in many rooms. Something like this will suffice for minor repairs.
1st Issue 1: Damaged doorknob
Step 1: One of the most typical drywall repairs is when a door is thrown open too hard, causing the doorknob to punch a hole in the drywall. A peel-and-stick repair patch is the easiest approach to mend the hole. The patch is made of an adhesive-backed aluminum screen strengthened with fiberglass mesh. Step 2: Apply joint compound over the patch with a four- or six-inch-wide drywall knife. Apply sufficient pressure to drive the compound through the mesh. After the compound has dried, lightly sand it and apply a second, thinner coat of compound, extending it a few inches beyond the previous coat. Repeat the process a third and final time. When dry, gently sand before priming and painting.
2nd Issue: Crumpled Corner Bead
Step 1: When two sheets of drywall meet at an outside wall corner, an L-shaped metal strip called a corner bead protects them. Corner bead is nailed over the corner and then two or three coats of joint compound are used to cover it. Metal corner bead is a robust material, however it is not unbreakable. It can be damaged by a variety of activities, including brushing up against the vacuum machine, a youngster hurling a toy, or moving furniture. The good news is that most of the time only a little part of the corner bead is destroyed, making restoration considerably easier. Begin by cutting through the corner bead about two inches above and below the damaged part using a hacksaw. Then, using a utility knife, cut along each vertical edge of the corner bead, being careful not to cut through the paint or joint compound.
Step 2: Using a tiny pry bar and a straight-bladed screwdriver, pry the severed piece of corner bead off the wall. Try not to harm the drywall surfaces around you. To repair the broken area, cut a fresh piece of corner bead using an aircraft snip.